Review: Dishoom - King's Cross

Review by Charlie Jones

29th August 2019

By now Dishoom is well known across London for its Bombay Cafe interiors, its famous Black Daal, and its buzzing night-time scene, brought by dozens of excited visitors who queue expectantly outside every night, and the hundreds of lucky diners inside who pack into their busy restaurants.

The big advantage of a breakfast sitting at Dishoom is that you can book. So there's no waiting around unsure if you're going to eat there or not (evenings can be difficult to get a table). We had a booking for nine people at 8 am and for those of us who got there early we were allowed to sit in the impressive lobby whilst the restaurant readied itself to open. By 8:30 am our section was almost full with a fantastic atmosphere, not common even in the most popular breakfast spots at this time in the morning.

Everyone in our group thought the food was excellent. Several went for the renowned Naan Rolls which didn't disappoint. The Wrestler's Naan Roll was a particular favourite with its jumbo serving of smoked streaky bacon, pork sausages, and runny-yolked egg, all wrapped in a monster naan. The naans at Dishoom never disappoint.

Today I went for the Keema Per Eedu on the recommendation of someone in our group. This is a spicy chicken mince topped with chicken livers, crisp-chips, and two runny eggs. It certainly didn't disappoint. It was deep in flavour and the level of gentle spice was perfect for breakfast - although to be honest I could take or leave the chicken livers next time (I've always found liver to have a texture like nothing else on earth: a claggy, smooth, oily meat, which is so soft and liquidy, yet dry as a bone.)


When I've had breakfast here before I was very impressed with The Big Bombay (the masala beans were a particularly highlight), and I know other people to have had the Akuri (spiced, scrambled eggs), and the Kejriwal (fried eggs on chilli cheese toast) all without a bad word to say.

I love Dishoom. The combination of deliciously surprising food and an exquisitely spiced atmosphere make this one of my favourites.